Candygram Cat

Who needs a cute idea for Valentine’s Day? Search no longer because I’ve got several patterns for crochet candygrams!

Are candygrams even still a thing? I’m not sure, but that’s what I’m calling these adorable little guys because they look super cute with a lollipop tucked inside the heart.

You could definitely use them for more than candy. I think they would be equally as sweet holding a little message that you could write up on card stock or attach to a foam heart cutout. They even look cute with their arms empty because they tend to want to stand up as if they are reaching out for a hug.

These candygrams would make the perfect gift for a friend, coworker, neighbor, classmate or child. What’s even better is that they work up quickly and they are so easy to customize; the possibilities are endless. Which is why I can’t stop making them. I hope you love making them too!

One more thing, they are all fairly similar, but they are definitely different in their construction so I will be releasing the patterns one at a time. The good news is that most of the patterns are finished so you’ll have them all soon! that ALL five are ready and posted!

Supplies:

• Small amounts of yarn in various colors to achieve desired look.   I used worsted weight yarn from my stash – primarily Loops & Threads Impeccable yarn
  1. Main Color
  2. Contrasting Color
  3. Heart Color
• 3.75 mm crochet hook
• Scissors
• Needle for sewing down yarn tails and stitching panels together
• Embroidery floss
• Needle for embroidery details
• 6 mm safety eyes (optional)
• Small amount of poly-fil or stuffing of choice

Note about supplies:  This project can be easily customized to accommodate supplies you may already have on hand.  Please be mindful of safety and durability when selecting embellishments, especially if you intend to give this to a child.  For example, something like safety eyes could be a choking hazard and you may want to embroider eyes instead.  You may also consider gluing googly eyes, using buttons, felt or even puff paint for the details on the face if appropriate  You could use felt, card stock or foam for the heart instead of crochet.  Scrap yarn would make an excellent filling if you don’t have poly-fil and splitting a strand of yarn is a great substitute for embroidery floss. 

Abbreviations and stitches used:

• CH          chain
• SC           single crochet
• HDC       half double crochet
• DC          double crochet       
• SS            slip stitch
• TR          treble crochet

Pattern Notes:

The beginning CH 1 or CH 2 at the start of rows does not count as a stitch throughout unless otherwise specified.

The panels are worked in one continuous piece.  In other words, the ears, limbs and tail are crocheted as you make the panel.  You will crochet a rectangle shape and when you get to the instructions for Row 15, you will work around the perimeter of the rectangle and this is when the ears, limbs and tail are created.   The pattern instructions for this row (Row 15) will be broken down into sides (i.e. head, sides, and bottom) as instructions for each side of the rectangle will vary. 

You will make a front and back panel and while similar, they are not exactly the same.  To keep the arms flexible, they are only made on the front panel.  Feet, ears and tail are made on both and stitched together, giving them more stability. The panels are whip stitched together and are lightly stuffed before closing off completely.  The limbs need to be whip stitched around (with exception to the arms) AND the rectangle needs to be closed off to keep the stuffing in that part only. 

After stitching around a limb (image 1 below), it is recommended to make 2-3 stitches across the bottom of the limb (i.e. along the perimeter of the rectangle) to close it off (images 2 and 3) before continuing to whip stitch around the remainder of the panel. 

The arms are only worked on one panel and should be flexible – do not whip stitch around the arms!  Instead, when you reach an arm, work 2-3 stitches across the base of the arm (i.e. along the perimeter of the rectangle) to close it off.  See images below:

Finally, when embroidering details, I find it works best to use a sharp needle and try to make stitches that penetrate through the fibers of the yarn, not in the gaps between crochet stitches.  When making the nose, start with a “V” shape and then make several more lines moving along the top edge ending at the same central point on the bottom.  Then, make one or a couple horizontal lines at the top.  See images below:

Pattern Front Panel:

Using main color

Row 1:  CH 11, SC in second CH from hook and in each remaining CH (10 SC)

Row 2:  CH 1, Turn.  SC in each stitch across (10 SC)

Row 3-14:  Repeat Row 2

Row 15:  *this Row is worked along the perimeter of the rectangle and will be broken down into sides*

Head:  Turn.  CH 6 and SS in second CH from hook, SC in next, HDC in next, DC in next (first ear made), skip first 2 stitches (of Row 14) and SS into the next stitch.  SC in next three stitches.  SS in next and CH 6, SS in second CH from hook, SC in next, HDC in next, DC in next (second ear made), skip 2 stitches (of Row 14) and SS into the last stitch.

Edge:  Rotate work.  Hint you are working along the edge into the sides of rows; however, I will refer to these spaces as stitches.  CH 1 and work 5 SC along the edge.  SS in next stitch of edge and CH 9.  Work 4 SC in second CH from hook and 1 HDC in next 6 CHs.  Skip 1 stitch along the edge and SS.  Work 5 SC along edge and make 3SC in last stitch of edge.

Bottom:  Rotate work.  Hint: you should be working in the backside of the starting CH; however, I will refer to these as stitches.  SS into first stitch and CH 7.  DC in third CH from hook and make 1 DC in next three CHs (first leg made).  Skip 2 stitches (starting CH of Row 1) and SS into next.  SC in next 2 stitches and SS into next.  CH 7 and DC in third CH from hook, make 1 DC in next three CHs (second leg made), skip 2 stitches (starting CH of Row 1) and SS into the last.

Edge:  Rotate work.  Hint you are working along the edge into the sides of rows; however, I will refer to these spaces as stitches.  Work 3 SC in first stitch of edge.  SS into next and CH 10.  Work 3 SC in second CH from hook, SS into next 2 CHs.  Skip 1 CH, SS into the next and work 1 SC into next 3 CHs (tail made).  Skip 1 stitch along the edge and SS into next.  SC in next two stitches and SS into next.  CH 9 and work 4 SC in second CH from hook.  Work 1 HDC in next 6 CHs (second arm made).  Skip 1 stitch along the edge and SS into the next.  Work 1 SC in next 5 stitches and SS to join.

Break yarn.

Pattern Back Panel:

Using main color

Row 1:  CH 11, SC in second CH from hook and in each remaining CH (10 SC)

Row 2:  CH 1, Turn.  SC in each stitch across (10 SC)

Row 3-14:  Repeat Row 2

Row 15:  *this Row is worked along the perimeter of the rectangle and will be broken down into sides*

Head:  Turn.  CH 6 and SS in second CH from hook, SC in next, HDC in next, DC in next (first ear made), skip first 2 stitches (of Row 14) and SS into the next stitch (as previously completed).  SC in next three stitches.  SS in next and CH 6, SS in second CH from hook, SC in next, HDC in next, DC in next (second ear made), skip 2 stitches (of Row 14) and SS into the last stitch..

Edge:  Rotate work.  Hint you are working along the edge into the sides of rows; however, I will refer to these spaces as stitches.  CH 1, work 10 SC.  SS into next and CH 10.  Work 3 SC in second CH from hook, SS into next 2 CHs.  Skip 1 CH, SS into the next and work 1 SC into next 3 CHs (tail made).  Skip 1 stitch along the edge and SS into next.  Work 3 SC into last stitch of edge.

Bottom:  Rotate work.  Hint: you should be working in the backside of the starting CH; however, I will refer to these as stitches.  SS into first stitch and CH 7.  DC in third CH from hook and make 1 DC in next three CHs (first leg made).  Skip 2 stitches (starting CH of Row 1) and SS into next.  SC in next 2 stitches and SS into next.  CH 7 and DC in third CH from hook, make 1 DC in next three CHs (second leg made), skip 2 stitches (starting CH of Row 1) and SS into the last.

Edge:  Rotate work.  Hint you are working along the edge into the sides of rows; however, I will refer to these spaces as stitches.  Work 3 SC in first stitch of edge and 1 SC in remaining 13 stitches.  SS to join. 

Break yarn.                     

Pattern Belly/Face:

Using contrasting color

Note:  you will work along the front and backside of the starting CH

Row 1:  CH 5 and work 2 SC in second CH from hook, SC in next 2 CHs and work 4 SC in last CH.  Rotate work and make 1 SC in next 2 CHs (along the backside of the starting CH) and 2 SC in the last CH.  SS to join to first SC.

Row 2:  CH 1 and make 2 SC into same stitch as join.  Work 2 SC into next stitch.  SC in next 2 stitches.  2 SC in each of the next 4 stitches.  SC in next 2 stitches.  2 SC into each of the last 2 stitches.  SS to join to first SC and SS into next stitch.

Hint:  You should have an oval shape and going forward a rectangle shape will be added to one side.

Row 3:  SS in next stitch, CH 1 and SC in same stitch.  SC in next 5 stitches. (remaining stitches are unworked) 

Row 4:  CH 1, Turn.  1 SC in each SC from Row 3 (6 SC)

Row 5:  Repeat Row 4 three more times.

Break yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Assembly:                                     

• Stitch the belly/face onto the right side of the front panel using the long tail. 
• Using embroidery floss and picture as a guide, stitch a nose, mouth and whiskers onto the face.  I also made a couple of stitches for the inside of the ears.
• Place safety eyes (if using) and secure the back.  I like my eyes close together and touching the belly/face piece.
• Place the front and back panels together with the right sides facing to the outside (wrong sides facing the inside) and whip stitch along the perimeter using a long strand of the main color.  You will need to whip stitch around the feet, tail and ears (do not stitch around the arms) and also along the perimeter of the rectangle at the base of the ears, arms, feet and tail.  See pattern notes if you need more clarification.  Before closing the entire piece, insert a small amount of poly-fil and sew shut. 
• Weave in any remaining ends. 

Pattern Heart:

Using heart color

Round 1:  Magic ring, CH 2, 3 TR, 2 DC, HDC, CH 1, SC, CH 1, HDC, 2 DC, 3 TR, CH 2 and SS into ring.  Pull to close, but don’t tighten all the way just yet.

Round 2:  CH 2, work 3 SC into first stitch, SC and HDC into next stitch, SC in next 4 stitches and SC into CH space, CH 1, DC into next stitch, CH 1, SC into CH space and SC in next 4 stitches, HDC and SC into next, 3 SC into last stitch, CH 2 and SS into the ring again.

Break yarn and leave a long tail for stitching.  Pull ring taught. 

Putting It All Together:

You should have an idea of what you will be inserting (if anything at all because these are adorable in of themselves) before proceeding.

You may choose to stitch the hearts directly onto the body and make a stitch or two on the hands to pin them in place as if holding the heart.  You may also choose to only stitch a portion of the heart onto the body so you can tuck a small treat like a piece of chocolate or lollipop inside.  You could consider attaching a little Velcro to a colorful foam cutout and to the hands in order to deliver a kind message.  There are so many possibilities!  I think these cats even look cute with the arms outstretched as if they are ready for a hug.  Have fun and I hope you share your finished work before you send them off to make someone smile as I would love to see what you come up with!

You are free to share your finished work, to include selling your finished products, but please credit me – SheMakesCrochet – as the pattern designer. Please do not distribute this pattern or any portion of it, instead direct people to my blog. THANK YOU!

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