Dinomonster Candygram

This pattern is number three of five crochet candygrams! The cat and bear are already posted so be sure to check them out if you haven’t already. You really need to make all of these, they seriously get cuter as part of a group. The final two patterns will be coming in the next few days – be on the lookout! have been posted! All five are now available.

Someone asked me on Facebook if she would be able to attach a pencil instead of a lollipop to these candygrams.

Why didn’t I think of that!?

I am well aware that schools tend to discourage food treats. Not to mention [and I’m a little embarrassed to admit], I have had several leftover Valentine’s Day themed pencils and erasers sitting in my craft box for close to TWO years. I gave it a try this morning and I really think the cute factor totally increased exponentially by adding a pencil.

Look at how the arms just perfectly grip onto it! It’s like it was always meant to be. There is absolutely no need to change the design, it’s a matter of how the heart is stitched into place. Stitch the bottom half only and you can slip an eraser or a small candy inside. Stitch only a portion of the top and a portion of the bottom, leaving a gap on either side to slide a pencil into place!

Aren’t they the cutest?!? A pencil or pen could be a fun Valentine idea for coworkers, at least where I work.

One final thing to address is what to call these guys! I was intending to make a dinosaur, but I think they strongly resemble monsters. Maybe it’s the tooth. I can’t fully commit one way or another, hence the name “Dinomonster”. What do you guys think – dinosaur or monster?

Supplies:

• Small amounts of yarn in various colors to achieve desired look.   I used worsted weight yarn from my stash – primarily Loops & Threads Impeccable yarn
  1. Main Color
  2. Contrasting Color
  3. Heart Color
• 3.75 mm crochet hook
• Scissors
• Needle for sewing down yarn tails and stitching panels together
• Embroidery floss
• Needle for embroidery details
• 6 mm safety eyes (optional)
• Small amount of poly-fil or stuffing of choice

Note about supplies:  This project can be easily customized to accommodate supplies you may already have on hand.  Please be mindful of safety and durability when selecting embellishments, especially if you intend to give this to a child.  For example, something like safety eyes could be a choking hazard and you may want to embroider eyes instead.  You may also consider gluing googly eyes, using buttons, felt or even puff paint for the details on the face if appropriate  You could use felt, card stock or foam for the heart instead of crochet.  Scrap yarn would make an excellent filling if you don’t have poly-fil and splitting a strand of yarn is a great substitute for embroidery floss. 

Finished Dimensions:  Finished piece is approximately 5 inches tall  

Abbreviations and stitches used:

• CH          chain
• SC           single crochet
• HDC       half double crochet
• DC          double crochet       
• SS            slip stitch
• TR          treble crochet

Pattern Notes:

The beginning CH 1 or CH 2 at the start of rows does not count as a stitch throughout unless otherwise specified.

The panels are worked in one continuous piece.  In other words, the limbs and tail are crocheted as you make the panel.  You will crochet a rectangle shape and when you get to the instructions for Row 15, you will work around the perimeter of the rectangle and this is when the limbs and tail are created.   The pattern instructions for this row (Row 15) will be broken down into sides (i.e. head, sides, and bottom) as instructions for each side of the rectangle will vary. 

You will make a front and back panel and while similar, they are not exactly the same.  To keep the arms flexible, they are only made on the front panel.  Feet and tail are made on both and stitched together, giving them more stability. 

The panels are whip stitched together and are lightly stuffed before closing off completely.  The feet need to be whip stitched around AND the rectangle needs to be closed off to keep the stuffing in that part only.  After stitching around the feet (image 1 below), it is recommended to make 2-3 running stitches across the bottom of the limb (i.e. along the perimeter of the rectangle) to close it off (image 2) before continuing to whip stitch around the remainder of the panel. 

The arms are only worked on one panel and should be flexible – do not whip stitch around the arms!  Instead, when you reach an arm, work 2-3 running stitches across the base of the arm (i.e. along the perimeter of the rectangle) to close it off and continue whip stitching around the panel.

The fourth side of the panel – the side with the tail and spikes is a little different because a portion of that side gets closed off when the spikes are created.  The bottom edge of the tail needs to be whip stitched closed.  The long edge of the panel needs to be closed off with running stitches.  You will need to zig-zag your stitches at the tail (i.e. below the arm) in order to close off the gap between the tail and the rectangle (as it is fairly large, this will become more clear when you create the tail).  To do this, insert your needle through both panel pieces just inside the perimeter of the rectangle and then when coming back up with the needle insert it through both panel pieces just inside the tail.  Reference the pictures below:

Finally, when embroidering details, I find it works best to use a sharp needle and try to make stitches that penetrate through the fibers of the yarn, not in the gaps between crochet stitches. 

Pattern Front Panel:

Using main color

Row 1:  CH 11, SC in second CH from hook and in each remaining CH (10 SC)

Row 2:  CH 1, Turn.  SC in each stitch across (10 SC)

Row 3-14:  Repeat Row 2

Row 15:  *this Row is worked along the perimeter of the rectangle and will be broken down into sides*

Head:  CH 1, Turn.  SC in each stitch across.

Edge:  Rotate work.  Hint you are working along the edge into the sides of rows; however, I will refer to these spaces as stitches.  CH 1 and work 5 SC along the edge.  SS in next stitch of edge and CH 9.  Work 4 SC in second CH from hook and 1 HDC in next 6 CHs (first arm made).  Skip 1 stitch along the edge and SS.  Work 6 SC along edge and make 3 SC in last stitch of edge.

Bottom:  Rotate work.  Hint: you should be working in the backside of the starting CH; however, I will refer to these as stitches.  SS into first stitch and CH 7.  DC in third CH from hook and make 1 DC in next three CHs (first leg made).  Skip 2 stitches (starting CH of Row 1) and SS into next.  SC in next 2 stitches and SS into next.  CH 7, DC in third CH from hook and make 1 DC in next three CHs (second leg made).  Skip 2 stitches (starting CH of Row 1) and SS into the last.

Edge:  Rotate work.  Hint you are working along the edge into the sides of rows; however, I will refer to these spaces as stitches.  CH 10 and SS in second CH from hook.  SC in next, HDC in next and DC in next 5 CHs (image 1 below). 

CH 2, Turn.  DC in first 2 stitches, HDC in next 2 stitches, SC in next 2 stitches, SS.

DO NOT CH, Turn (image 2).  Skip first stitch and SS into next.  SC in next 2 stitches, HDC in next 2 stitches, DC in last (image 3).

Skip 7 stitches along the panel edge and SS into next (image 4).  CH 9 and work 4 SC in second CH from hook.  HDC in next 6 CHs (second arm made).  Skip 1 stitch along the edge and SS.  Work 5 SC along edge.  SS to join.

Break yarn.

Pattern Back Panel:

Using main color

Row 1:  CH 11, SC in second CH from hook and in each remaining CH (10 SC)

Row 2:  CH 1, Turn.  SC in each stitch across (10 SC)

Row 3-14:  Repeat Row 2

Row 15:  *this Row is worked along the perimeter of the rectangle and will be broken down into sides*

Head:  CH 1, Turn.  SC in each stitch across.

Edge:  Rotate work.  Hint you are working along the edge into the sides of rows; however, I will refer to these spaces as stitches.  CH 1, work 14 SC along the edge and make 3 SC in last stitch of edge.

Bottom:  Rotate work.  Hint: you should be working in the backside of the starting CH; however, I will refer to these as stitches.  SS into first stitch and CH 7.  DC in third CH from hook and make 1 DC in next three CHs (first leg made).  Skip 2 stitches (starting CH of Row 1) and SS into next.  SC in next 2 stitches and SS into next.  CH 7, DC in third CH from hook and make 1 DC in next three CHs (second leg made).  Skip 2 stitches (starting CH of Row 1) and SS into the last.

Edge:  Rotate work.  Hint you are working along the edge into the sides of rows; however, I will refer to these spaces as stitches.  CH 10 and SS in second CH from hook.  SC in next, HDC in next and DC in next 5 CHs (as completed for front panel). 

CH 2, Turn.  DC in first 2 stitches, HDC in next 2 stitches, SC in next 2 stitches, SS.

DO NOT CH, Turn.  Skip first stitch and SS into next.  SC in next 2 stitches, HDC in next 2 stitches, DC in last.

Skip 7 stitches along the panel edge and SS into next.  SC in remaining 7 stitches along edge.  SS to join.

Break yarn.

Pattern Spikes:

Using contrasting color

Note:  you will work the spikes inserting your hook into stitches of both panels.  See images below for further clarification.

Row 1:  Draw up loop and CH 1 in first SC stitch of last row of tail (image 1).  Work 3 HDC into same stitch (i.e. the stitch with starting loop).  CH 3 and SS into side of last HDC made (creating a picot) (images 2 and 3).  Work 2 more HDC into same stitch (first spike made).  Skip 1 stitch and SS into next.  *Work 3 HDC into same stitch (stitch with SS).  CH 3 and SS into side of last HDC made (creating a picot).  Work 2 more HDC into same stitch.  Skip 1 stitch and SS in next.* Repeat from * one more time.  At this point you should be at the arm, make 3 SS behind the arm (working into the back panel only – image 4), make a SS into both panels right after the arm.  Repeat from * two more times.  Break yarn. 

Assembly:                                     

• Using embroidery floss and picture as a guide, stitch a tooth and mouth onto the face.
• Place safety eyes (if using) and secure the back.  I like my eyes close together.
• Whip stitch along the perimeter using a long strand of the main color.  You will need to whip stitch around 3 sides – the top of the head, the side without the tail and the bottom edge including the bottom of the tail.  Be sure to also whip stitch around the feet (do not stitch around the arms).  You will need to make 2-3 running stitches along the perimeter of the rectangle at the base of the arms and feet to close it off before stuffing.  The fourth side (the side with the tail) needs a running stitch along the perimeter of the rectangle to close it off; however, you should notice that there is a large gap where we skipped 7 stitches after creating the tail.  This needs to be snug up against the panel as well and you can do that at the same time you close off the rectangle by zig-zagging your stitches working just inside the rectangle and just inside the tail.  See pattern notes if you need more clarification.  Before closing the piece entirely, insert a small amount of poly-fil and sew shut. 
• Weave in any remaining ends. 

Pattern Heart:

Using heart color

Round 1:  Magic ring, CH 2, 3 TR, 2 DC, HDC, CH 1, SC, CH 1, HDC, 2 DC, 3 TR, CH 2 and SS into ring.  Pull to close, but don’t tighten all the way just yet.

Round 2:  CH 2, work 3 SC into first stitch, SC and HDC into next stitch, SC in next 4 stitches and SC into CH space, CH 1, DC into next stitch, CH 1, SC into CH space and SC in next 4 stitches, HDC and SC into next, 3 SC into last stitch, CH 2 and SS into the ring again.

Break yarn and leave a long tail for stitching.  Pull ring taught. 

Putting It All Together:

You should have an idea of what you will be inserting (if anything at all because these are adorable in of themselves) before proceeding.

You may choose to stitch the hearts directly onto the body and make a stitch or two on the hands to pin them in place as if holding the heart.  You may also choose to only stitch a portion of the heart onto the body so you can tuck a small note or treat like a piece of chocolate, lollipop, pencil or cute eraser inside. There are so many possibilities!  I think these even look cute with the arms outstretched as if they are ready for a hug.  Have fun and I hope you share your finished work – you can do so on Facebook with the tag @shemakescrochet – I would love to see what you come up with!

You are free to share your finished work, to include selling your finished products, but please credit me – SheMakesCrochet – as the pattern designer. Please do not distribute this pattern or any portion of it, instead direct people to my blog. THANK YOU!

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